Fitting Work Pays Off...

Yesterday I debuted my cobalt pants with a top from last years sewalong which I think matched up pretty nicely.

I'm in love!!!  Not too snug, not too loose, no pulling or adjusting needed during the day.  They didn't grow on me as the day wore on, and everyone LOVED the color.  I'm happy folks, and feel that my month's worth of fitting work has paid off.  That's saying a lot for me when it comes to hand crafted pants. 

PAIRS #3 AND #4

Here's another door picture of my latest projects

Black Gaberdine and print Cotton Sateen

To be honest, I have to admit that I'm about SICK of making pants.  Oh, I'm mighty glad that I've finally got the fit right, but there is something within me that forces me to work on an original plan until it's completely done is starting to wear on me.  

PANTS FITTING U...

...I'm still attending Pant's Fitting U.  Can't really give an anticipated graduation date, but I can tell you that I entered this semester willing and hungry to learn. 

I have completed two nice fitting pairs.  They are awaiting new tops that I have planned before I wear them.  I know that you'd probably like to see me wearing the pants to show the fit rather than a picture of them hanging on a door, but that's all I've got right now.  My plan was to make 5 pairs of great fitting  pants complete with a variety of matching tops - a complete 5 day wardrobe.  Wouldn't that be nice???  That's still the plan, but in the meantime,  here's a picture of my progress thus far

Cobalt Gaberdine and Aqua Linen Blend

 I'm currently making a much needed black pair, but I already have this fabric earmarked for my fourth pair.  This print definitely means that I am stepping out of my comfort zone, but  I've been wanting print pants f-o-r-e-v-e-r.  The colors fit perfectly in the vision I have for my "SUMMER BREEZES" wardrobe. 

Still Pants Muslining...

...it took me an entire week to get back to my pant's fitting task because the week was so very busy.   By the time I got home each evening I was so pooped that I thought it best not to sew - so didn't.  In the meantime I watched two pants fitting videos - the one that was very helpful was from the Thread's Fitting DVD series, for waist and hips) and another one (which I won't even name) wasn't so helpful.

Taking the information I gathered from the Thread's DVD,  I took the changes made to muslin #1 (from last week), transferred them to my pattern, and made up muslin #2.  I was willing to sacrifice time for this extra work because I truly believed that it would yield great results.  Here's Muslin #2, and  I'm satisfied with the results.

MUSLIN #2

The muslin is comfortable sitting and standing (in fact, I'm wearing it right now).   I only had to try it on three times opposed to the usual 10 to 12 times (no kidding).  Could the muslin be better fit?  I believe that it could be tweaked further if I had the use of extra hands and another set of eyes.  But for my solitary efforts of fitting myself by myself, I think I did a good job.  I feel that I've learned a lot about pants fitting this go around, and am certain that if someone else needed help fitting pants I could be a valuable help.

There are five pair of pants in my summer wardrobe plans.  Hope I have zippers stashed in all the right colors.  Speaking of zippers - I usually pull out a special set of instructions I have for front fly zippers.  Recently I couldn't find my laminated copy and had to wing the zipper insertion.  I found that I've been using the instructions as a crutch.  Oh well, my skills are progressing...

Dealing with Pants Fitting issues...

So I went back to the drawing board with the same old vintage TNT pants pattern after ending up with a wadder when I recently tried a new pattern.  I am determined that when I need a new pair of pants, I'll be able to pick my pattern up and simply whip up a pair - voila, yeah just like that!

So I:

•  re-traced the original pattern
• cut a new muslin without any preconceived alterations- starting from scratch
• extra tedious work - yes!  But I plan on it being well worth it  

What does it matter that my pants are made alike?  I contend, especially when time is of the essence, that correct fit, good construction, and quality fabric is really all that matters with this particular garment.  Here's a picture of my major pants fitting issue and what I'm doing to eliminate it:

Pockets are sagging a little, but I can fix that by stabilizing that area during pocket construction.

It's odd, but this pattern fits me perfectly in the back.  But as you can see from the front, I'm plagued with diagonal wrinkles that extend from the crouch to the side seam.  Here you can see that I've  following Peggy Sagers advice by:

• working with a muslin I've pinched out the wrinkles, pinned up the excess (right side) in a diagonal dart, and then stitched the dart in (left side). 
• Peggy suggests disassembling the muslin and using it as the actual pattern rather than chancing error when transferring the alteration it to the original pattern piece.

Next I'll:

• mark all basted seam allowances that I've altered to make a better fit, 
• then remove all the basting stitches, completely dissembling the muslin, and
• use the muslin pieces as my pattern. 

I won't make a second muslin because I think my diagonal wrinkle problem will be solved.  I have three pairs of pants planned as my next sewing projects.  Maybe by mid week I'll have a new pair of wrinkle free pants.  You can reference my blog for a more detailed post.

NEW TOP...

...I felt I needed to re-visit New Look 6150 because my first try with it  ended up a wadder even though it was a muslin.  I cut the muslin too large, and it was plagued with major gaping in the bust area.

Mmmmm,what can I say about my newly finished top - well I'm not absolutely pleased, but I do feel that it will get some wear.  I fixed the gaping problem so the fit is much, much better, but I guess the pattern is must not be for me.  The construction is good, I made sure of that - even though I knew half way through the project that the style was just not me.  It's not awfully terrible and there's no way I'm trashing this great jersey knit - at least not right away.

The fabric has a navy lace print on an off white background.  Fabric suits me, style does not.  It just seems a little matronly to me.  It might make it into work wardrobe rotation  - I'm not sure.  If not it will
certainly work for those "I've got to make a quick run to the store" trips.  Guess you can tell that I'm not feeling to chipper about it.

I do have a nice pattern refashion project coming up next so keep your fingers crossed for me...